Need some new ideas for dinner? I am here to share recipes from an eighteenth century book that was popular in colonial America. Published in 1737 by William Kendrick, it’s called The Whole Duty of Woman, or, An Infallible Guide to the Fair Sex. (Could there be a more off-putting title?) I suspect that the recipes in this volume may have been what we might today call “aspirational,” like the ones you see in modern-day cookbooks that have been written by chefs who have platoons of sous chefs at their disposal. For instance, many of these require multiple pots and pans, and the vast majority of colonial Americans were lucky if they had one pot or pan. Another thing that jumps out: early Americans weren’t big on vegetables. Have a look. (With apologies to my vegetarian friends.)
Black Puddings
Put in a Stew-pan some Hog’s Blood, a little Milk, and a Ladle full of fat Broth; then cut a sufficient Quantity of thin Slices of Hog’s Fat, with some Parsley, Cives, and Sweet Herbs cut small; put the whole into your Stew-pan, season it with Salt, Pepper, Spice, and Onions done in hot Ashes, and cut small, mix this with your Blood, then make your Puddings as big as you please. Your Guts being well cleansed, scraped and scalded, blanch them in hot Water, and prick them with a Pin, and if you see the Fat come out, they are blanched enough, then take them out of the Water, broil them, and serve them up hot.
Cut it in Quarters and lay it in your Stew-pan; To one Calf’s Foot and the Pig’s Feet, put in a Pint of Rhenish Wine, the Juice of four Lemons, and one Quart of Water; season with Nutmeg and Salt; stove it gently two Hours, let it stand ‘till cold, and send it up in its Jelly.
To Souce a Pig
Cut off the Head of a fair large Pig, then slit him through the Midst [ed note: disconcerting pronoun use], then take out his Bones, then lay him in warm Water one Night, then collar him up like Brawn, then boil him tender in fair Water, and when he is boiled, put him in an Earthen Pot or Pan, in Water and Salt, for that will make him white, and season the Flesh for you must not put Salt in the boiling, for that will make it black [ed. note: um, what?], then take a Quart of the same Broth, and a Quart of White Wine, boil them together to make some Souce for it, put into it two or three Bay Leaves, when it is cold uncloath the Pig, and put it into the same Souce, and it will continue a Quarter of a Year [ed note: a Quarter of a Year. That’s what it says.]. It is a necessary Dish in any Gentleman’s House; when you serve it in, serve it with green Fennel, as you do Sturgeon with Vinegar in Saucers.
Ducks Tongues
Get as many Ducks, or Geese Tongues as you can; fifty Tongues will fill up a small Dish. Blanch them, put them in a Stew-pan over some Slices of Bacon, with Onions cut in Slices, and some Sprigs of Sweet Basil; season it with Salt, Pepper, and some Slices of Bacon, moisten it with a Spoonful of Broth, let it stew together. The Tongues being done, drain them, and put them, in some Essence of Ham, or an Italian Sauce, put them, for a Minute, over the Fire to take a Relish. Being ready to serve, let your Tongues be relishing, add the Juice of a Lemon; serve them up hot for a dainty Dish. At another Time [because your family will be clamoring to have you make this again], you may garnish them with Mushrooms, Truffles, Cocks Kidneys and Cocks Combs.
A Calf’s Head Pie
Boil your Calf’s Head, ‘till you can take out all the bones, slice into thin Slices and lay it in the Pie, with the Ingredients for savoury Pies. [ed note: It doesn’t say what the cook is supposed to do with the brain. I suspect it’s already been removed and put aside for another dish. One of those ever-helpful “reserve for another use.”]
And if you’re considering making a rabbit, here’s how to truss a hare “in the most fashionable Way.” I do wish the rabbit’s expression weren’t so . . . emotive.